Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. Numbering chosen here begins on the left with Natty Dread as # 1. Mark Van Horn's guide, published under the Falcon label, seems reasonably complete. I will leave some gaps in the numbering where it appears that more routes could go in. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.
Getting There
Overall, this seems to work out well: drive North of the hairpin. As the road descends to the creek there is parking on the left for a dozen cars. This will provide access to Heaven (North of The Gym) and to The Gym. In earlier years we parked at the hairpin, in the pull out now blocked by boulders. From here one can hike up to Cactus Cliff and traverse around to The Gym. Either way, an obvious trail takes off near the middle of the cliff and is user-friendly enough.
To find this route, read the directions given in the route titled "pinhead". From pinhead, hike approximately 100 yards to the north and locate a HUGE roof about 60 feet off the deck. To the left of this lies the gorgeous lines of "The Gym Arete" (please see Richard Wright's entry for this route) and "The Crack of Dawn". The Crack of Dawn is probably the most striking crack line I have seen at Shelf. We are talking BEAUTIFUL!!The Van Horn boo...[more]
There is a route that is located a few routes right of Gastoned. The first 2 bolts are homemade. It's pockety, very positive and extremely dirty. I knocked a huge block down from the left of this route this weekend. No one was hurt. I barely touched it and POW!!! The mid point of the route is pretty clean. Up by the anchors it gets dirty again. Anyone have any idea what this route is and what it is rated? Felt like a 9 maybe? My partner quessed 10a??
The Gym
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