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Closed areas, from March 3-July 31:
Twin Owls Bat Flake Batman Pinnacle Batman Rock Lightning Rock Checkerboard Rock Thunder Buttress The Parish
The second pitch with the ride side overhang by-pa...
Description
There is a big blocky ledge with a tree growing on it at the left edge of the face. This route goes up the right facing dihedral above this ledge.
Get up onto the ledge by any one of numerous ways. Go up the dihedral to a belay below an overhang, 5.5. The second pitch goes through the overhang to the left and finishes up the dihedral above. It is possible to go around the right side of the overhang and up to A Pig with Earrings 5.6 R or around the overhang and back left into the dihedral and finish, 5.5. Traverse off left or finish on Magic Chrome Plated . . .
If one were so inclined, a nice 4 pitch 5.5 climb may be had by using the right side overhang option mentioned above then the next two pitches of Magic Chrome . . . and then traverse off to the left at the upper headwall and into the deep cleft behind the Pear. Go right, east through the cleft and down the east side descent.
If the route is a wet from a recent storm or shower, dodge to the right of the 1st pitch roof onto the face. Gets a little run out, but solid placements. A nice route, great date climb. Potential to link with MAGICAL is super easy - same 2nd belay stn w/o the run out 2nd pitch of MAGICAL.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO May 19, 2008 rating: 5.7
This is a nice way to avoid traffic jams on Chrome Plated.