Werk Supp 

Yes, I made the same mistake on the descent too which made for some tangy downclimbing the steep slope with loose rocks. The correct or easier way is to stay high on the traverse until you see the talus field.

I found that many smaller pieces work best for the first pitch. My largest piece was a #2 Friend until the last move, where I placed a #3 Friend.

On a side note, Myke and I were filmed on this route today (4-30-01) for some climbing instruction program to be aired on a new cable network. We will probably get 5 sec. at the end when they are fading out. ;-)

The rock on the first 30 feet of P1 is exfoliated- test carefully before you pull. Also, the gear on this section is not abundant. Note there have been several ground falls from this pitch. You may want to place a directional at the top of the crack at the end of P1, before stepping left, to protect your second. It may be necessary to move the belay across an exposed section of rock to set up at the base of the 2nd pitch, since belaying the leader on the hand crack pitch from the anchors atop P1 creates rope drag and a bad directional pull on gear placed in the crack, although many people still do this. I like to skip the belay at the anchors atop P1 and instead move left and belay at the base of P2 (just put a long runner on the bolt anchor). An insecure leader may want a #4 Friend, and doubles from #2-#3, for the hand crack. It is easy to continue from the hand crack into March of Dimes in a single pitch. M. of Dimes requires a selection of wired nuts, and the belay anchors (i.e. gear you place) are a bit funky. Descend from M. of Dimes by traversing down a ramp (exposed and slippery), then step across a gap and follow a faint trail to the talus. These routes stay in the shade until early afternoon in mid-summer, just be prepared to wait in line...

I did both pitches yesterday and I would have to say... the second pitch is VERY STRENUOUS, especially after doing such a long pitch before it. Absolutely a 9+, if you are not comfortable climbing 9's then don't try it unless you got doubles in the #1 and 2 Camalots. I also found this climb to be VERY odd from the usual Eldo climbing style. I can't wait till I have more time to try the next section of March of Dimes (10c)... what a cool lookin' crack.

Somehow I never realized that there were bolts on top of the first pitch. Always did the long runner and belay at base of P2, as someone mentioned. This is a great route, though personally I don't like the first pitch very well (the 2nd one makes up for it though).

Really?? Wow! I think the first pitch is one of the best 5.8 pitches in the canyon--I've done it about half a dozen times. Great for running up at the end of the day.

Linking this route with the last pitch of March of Dimes is great, and it makes the descent much easier. Even though pitch two was short, I found myself placing more gear than I usually would only because the ramp on which the belayer sits angles up right quite steeply. Resultingly, in the the event of a fall, hitting this ledge is quite likely if the leader has run it out at all. 9+ is a good grade for this pitch, but the 10c March of Dimes pitch is a bit overgraded (more like a/b) especially when compared with routes like Bolting for Glory (10a) and Northcutt Start (10d).

An Awesome line.. A little bit of everything, jamfest on P2, good fingers on P1, great length on P1. A really superb route. Good grading as well, P2 deserves more credit than it gets, it is a character builder once you get on it. Jump in !!

If you like big cracks, P2 is great. I haven't found anything quite like it in Eldo. Eventhough P1 covers some discontinous features, the line is very enjoyable with good quality rock. I highly recomend it.

Did the first pitch today...you can sling a horn right when the real climbing begins for good, easy pro (not the two obvious horns below it). An all around 3 star pitch--and long.

The first pitch is easily one of the nicest pieces of rock I have EVER been on. Gorgeous line, good pro and astheitcally pleasing. Climb this thing. I think it deserves three stars:)

I agree with everyone, the first pitch is a really great climb. The pitch is varied, interesting and fairly sustained. The protection at the bottom of the route looked a little bit sketchy, although I didn't lead the route. But I thought the harder, upper moves were well protected. I really look forwared to leading this pitch.

I think the first pitch is rated 8+ in Rossiter's guide, and I would say that's right on.

If this pitch isn't 3 stars, I don't know what is ...

.... there are many flakes to hang a rope on, not to mention the rocks perched on top of P1 March of Dimes. I'm sure it is possible to rap directly from the anchors atop P1 Werk Supp, but doing it in 2 shorter raps significantly reduces the chance of something going wrong.

Before I led P2 I was given some beta on gear, which included taking a couple of Metolius #3s and a #4. The only gear I used, and felt very secure, were #1s and #2s. It is not actually an off-width, but a solid, be it awkward, hand crack. Because of the right leaning and downward direction of the crack, it leaves your body hanging and your right foot smearing most of the way.

I didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot near the crux(the offwidth is too flared for anything bigger.) Solid at the grade and burly. Laybacking caused me to barndoor and fall several times. Maybe a combination of jamming and laybacking would work. Well worth the effort and fun to do.

The second pitch, although shorter, is much sweeter than the first...very physical hand jamming, don't rappel after the first pitch!! Crack climbers will eat this pitch alive.

Small cams will sew this up...good stems, jams, and laybacks on P1. Pretty sustained for (8) climbing...thoughtful moves in a few setions, but its all there. A great, long, worthy first pitch...looking forward to continuing up P2 in the near future.

Pitch 1 has got to be my favorite 5.8 pitch in the whole canyon. Climbed it at lunch today and we were the only climbers on the Bastille.

If this isn't 4 stars, I'm not sure what is!

I led this route and finished with March of Dimes yesterday. All 3 pitches are stellar, in my opinion.

P1: sustained 8+, very enjoyable, a little runout after the first piece. Bring plenty of small-medium cams (i.e. 0.2-0.75 Camalot equivs.) and larger nuts. Definitely belay from below P2, rather than at the bolt anchor.

P2: I loved this pitch and felt more secure on it than on P1. I don't know what the + is doing in the rating. Maybe it is hand-size dependent, but I didn't find this particularly hard, and it is short. There are good feet on the right face and in the crack and the hand jams are bomber. I would say 5.9, no plus. It is easy to continue onto March of Dimes without stopping for a belay, although this may have been my downfall (I fell on the 10c crux) as I was kind of pumped after the first two pitches. May have benifitted from a rest before tackling MoD. Gear: I placed Camalots 4, 0.5, 3, 2, 1 BUT I think a 4 is unnecessary and a 3 would have been better in that placement.

P3: (March of Dimes) Hard, for me anyway. Tricky feet and crimpy hands up high. Used small nuts and Yellow and Green aliens (equiv. to BD 0.3, 0.2 I think), the latter of which held multiple lead falls before I figured out the sequence. My partner, Mike Flanagan flashed it though. The belay atop is weird. Sling a root, good BD #2, poor BD#3 (would have been better with bigger cam).

Trail another rope or use it for double rope gear (better idea) and you can rap to the ground from the chains ten feet east of the ledge you end up on after pitch one.

Was going to aid this today but we had a nice break in the cold snap and it went On Sight free on lead. I placed enough gear for aid (double ropes) should my girlfriend need it, but she toughed it out. REALLY classic first pitch. I'd do this three or four times a year for a quick run up a fun yet challenging route, especially if the Bast. Crack is a traffic jam. Easy climbing lets you top off the beast after pitch one anyway...

For gear, double up on nuts #7-9, double green Aliens-2" cams. For an anchor on a direct line with the first pitch, bring a pink tri-cam #9 BD stopper, and appropriate cams. You can set up an equalized anchor in the wide finger slot just after the cruxy overhang with accompanying finger-tip crack. If you're bailing after this, belay down to the chains and rap directly to the base. OR simul the rest of the broken ramp to top out the rock quickly.

Can't wait for the warm weather!~Wm

Goodness...Concerning the gear on this route, I recommended WAY too much. Doubling cams from green Aliens-2" is insane considering the weight you're carrying. Remember that I set enough gear for AID. This is when double ropes are recommended, NOT for a free ascent. This is not an Indian Creek varying crack, so don't gear up for that. Just bring a standard Eldo rack (but include some small cams and hexes. They will help). Thanks Leo. ~Wm

Great moves until getting to bolt anchor (following) loose flakes and a little polished for first 40' or so.

I recently climbed Werk Supp again. This time around I used left hand crimpers on the face and jammed with my right hand in the crack (laybacking will make you barndoor). Look for the rail near top left of the crack. Led the last pitch of March of Dimes from here-medium stopper, blue Alien, green Alien, blue Metolius.

I got to lead P1 for the first time today and found it to be exceptionally good. I ran out of the right size nuts towards the top. I can't honestly say what else could make this pitch better! It certainly deserves 3 stars.

I agree with Tim. Stellar first pitch! No approach, great climbing with sweet finger locks, and a quick rap off.

I vote (it's that time of year) for 5.9 on the second pitch. It's short but good stances to place pro above the offwidth are not there, and the climbing is sustained.

Climbed P1 today -- I thought the 5.8+ rating was right on. Beautiful sustained climbing with plenty of gear placement opportunities. We took 2 full sets of aliens and I used everyone along with 13 runners and various other pieces. Big gear is good to use in the first 30 feet but not a requirement. Also, a 60m rope for rappel gets you to about 10 feet off the ground to an easy down climb. I placed a perfect red Alien right in the crux but also found that I needed that hand hold. Next time I would use a stopper or something. Great route!

I followed senor Shatek on this fine route today. In retrospect, I wonder how well this might link up with the last two pitches of the Bastille Crack--that is, for those of us who are not yet ready to tackle the second pitch of 5.9. If you do the 5.8 variation on the last pitch of BC, it might make for a fine and more moderate multipitch link up. Has anyone done this? From what I could tell, from atop the first pitch of WS, you could ascend the ramp and set up belay at the base of the BC's fourth pitch.

Sure. From the top of WS pitch one (the lovely finger crack), cruise easily up the ramp to the right and enter a short but awkward dihedral (5.6; may be a fixed pin here). You will arrive at the belay on top of BC pitch 3.

Larry,

I've done this a few times and it links up fine. There is one tricky and awkward 5.8ish spot with poor pro (an old pin, I think) and quite a bit of loose rock but it goes...

The second pitch of WS gears up very well and is short. Go for it... when you're ready...

I finally had the opportunity to lead the first pitch last Friday. I thought it was a stellar lead and can't wait to do it again. I'm surprised this isn't as popular as the Bastille Crack. Anyway, great apres work climb.

The second pitch looks challenging and I'm psyching myself up for it one of these days. I've seen people solo it effortlessly, so how hard can it be, right ;).

Also, thanks for the beta about taking the ramp to finish on the Bastille Crack. Imho, it's a worthwhile link-up. Just watch that you don't get jammed up behind people on the B.C.

Since a rappel on a 60m rope will get you down within 10 feet of the ground with stretch, it's obviously not at 140-150 ft. pitch. I'd put it closer to 105 ft. Vertical distances are usually overestimated.

Larry, I think the ramp from the top of P1 on Werk Supp to the P2/P3 pitch of the Bastille Crack goes at 5.8ish if you stay to the left its 5.6ish with crappy pro if you go to the right its 5.8ish with better pro and an old pin at the crux; I think the route is called "Shatek's Ramp-age."

Does any one know what "[Werk Supp]" means or if its a different language? In my German to English dictionary (werk = action) and (Suppe = soup broth)....."action broth"?

Named by Ament because the climb works up (i.e. wers up) in difficulty the higher you go. Find an old copy of High Over Boulder to read Pat's comments.

My .02 cents - p1 is great fun, a perfect challenge for anyone comfortable on 5.8ish routes. Several thought provoking sections between good stances. I was glad to have lots of small gear, I used all of it. First 30' or so has kinda sketchy pro, after that it's solid.

This is a great climb and well worth doing. Pitch one and two could not be more different. Pitch one is thoughtful and balence-oriented while pitch two is deep-set slammer hands. For what it's worth, P2 [reminded] me of [Pool of Blood]. For the walk-off: head east down a ramp system, you'll see a tree with slings-don't go there, instead climb up a short corner and then down a very easy ramp to the talus.

I only did pitch one. It's superb. Moves are consistent from start to finish making this an enduro 5.8 climb. There is only one downside to this pitch. If you climb the broken crack system straight up (without exiting left anywhere), you will find that the anchor is down and to the left about 10-15 feet. One of the best single pitches anywhere.

I agree with Danny that the two pitches could not be more different. The first is balancy face (and a bit of crack) climbing while the second is strenuous crack climbing. We linked the second pitch with the last pitch of March of Dimes and then we did the downclimb/walkoff. Easy descent.

Rant: please rate a route only after you've climbed all the pitches.

The moves on the first pitch of Werk Supp are sporty. The moves on the second pitch are more traditional. If you are a solid trad climber, you should do the second pitch. If you are a strong sport climber, good luck on pitch two. The two pitch climb is excellent.

The first pitch by itself is also excellent if you don't have much time and you want to squeeze in a climb.

If you're going to do the first pitch, then you have to do the second. That's where all the excitement is! Getting swallowed up by that fat crack is great!

A 70m rope gets you to the ground from the P1 anchors. Fantastic pitch!

**** 4 stars all the way.....how could anyone rate this 2 stars.

This would be a **** route if there was some kind of fixed anchor either atop the 10c March o' Dimes pitch, or above p2 of Werksupp. Summitting above here takes a lot of time and walking, the "East Face" isn't fun to descend either.

I followed pitch one and I thought it was quite interesting and somewhat typical Eldo style with traversing and steep face with the occasional crack feature for gear and what not. Pretty sporty; sustained and a bit bold, I don't think I would have enjoyed to lead it.

P2. Was mine and I was a bit nervous with anticipation of the awkward looking crack but also eager to get on it and learn something. I got up and placed 2 cams and got pretty pumped trying to see how to get up the akward section onto the stance in the first pod, I came off and grabbed a cam to keep from decking as my belayer was back at the chains of pitch 1 and there would have been a bit of rope stretch.

I lowered to the ground and started again after looking it over a bit. I got into the first rest stance in the pod and got some more gear, and kept working the hands/ wide hands crack through the pods getting gear and an awkward rest occasionally. I plugged a #1 near what seemed the crux and ran it out to the ledge with the tree on the far side.

Both I and my partner found this to be stout for the grade and definitely sustained for the short pitch it was. The thing seems to want to spit you out the whole time, and there isn't much out side of the crack to keep you in so you just have to work the jambs, keep moving and keep an eye out for holds on either side of the crack when the going gets rough.

We took MOD for the third pitch and both had some trouble with it seems stout to me, bout as hard as Northcutt Start on BC for sure IMO. We continued up the OW directly above and over to the last pitch of BC, good fun! Pretty sure I used my 3.5 and #4 on p2. and my partner wanted the #4 on the OW above the finger crack on MOD.

Fantastic; in all honestly the first pitch my be my favorite trad line anywhere; fantastic, varied, and sustained climbing makes this a classic moderate. Just when things start to feel a little hairy one of the magic "wrap your hand around" flakes of a bomber finger jam appears. Eat's TCUs and C3s for breakfast. We found with a 70m rope and some rope management [read: long slings] you can get to the top of the Bastille via the end of Bastille Crack from the Werk Supp PI anchors in one pitch, which makes for a great afternoon jaunt if time is scarce.