DO THIS ROUTE because it's definitely one of the best in the canyon! Simply a fantastic route; fun for both the studly 12 ropegunner and the beginner friends you're taking out. It's 85' down from the anchors, so be careful lowering/rapping with a 50m rope.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering chains. Minimal rope drag, so it's a good top-rope once someone's led up to the anchors.
This is one of the best routes of its grade anywhere. You gotta love how the holds keep shrinking until you find that huge pocket, and the start is cool, too!!
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 3, 2001
Duh-oh! This comment was for "Stone Cold Moderate" which is next to "5th of July." Sorry.
Any-friggin' how, it seemed to me that these two climbs share the same first bolt. After that, 5th of July is a much more interesting ride. The anchors are way back from the top of the wall, which makes verbal communication with your belayer quite difficult. A 50m rope might even get you dropped that last two or three feet as it slips through your belayer's device. That is, if they are walking back to try and see you. Better tie a big knot in the end of that rope thar. Yup.
I have climbed this route multiple times. In Richard's defense, these are not drilled pockets; they are as natural as they come. I know a little about this as a geologist. Can you spell weathering? Boy, Richard would be really hard up if he needed to reduce routes to a 5.9 level.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Sep 6, 2001
I tried to phrase my question as neutrally as possible; I wasn't trying to be suggestive! I've never seen pockets like that on metamorhpic rock which is why I wondered in the first place--also, I've heard rumors of some CCC routes being chipped, but there are many routes. Good climb!
My second outdoor sport climb, the first being "Stone Cold Moderate". It's a pretty good route. Not a sustained 5.9 climb, but all these routes seem to have that problem. I remember a straightforward jug to get off the ground, followed by 30 feet of steadily narrowing holds, and then the awesome finger-pocket crux! BTW, is this finger pocket real, or an old bolt hole? After the crux, it's 30 easy feet to the anchors.
This is a definite "must do" while visiting High wire. The beginning's not too tricky and adds to the flavor of the route. You'll probably have to wait in line for this route though, so be prepared.
What a great route!! The length is wonderful - one of the longer single pitches on this wall! All beginning leaders should check it out, if they don't get intimidated by the start. It's not that hard, if you stay on the jugs to the left!
Thanks for drilling these bolts, and not the pockets Richard, this is as glorious as it gets!
By Kyle Turner From: Broomfield, CO Apr 16, 2004 rating: 5.9
First move is a bit bouldery, be safe and clip the first bolt from the rock to the right. This is a fun route with good starting move. Run up it if you're at highwire.
I might call it a 5.8 but it's got good rock w/ solid holds, bolts every 8 ft so it's well protected. Good length. Great beginner for the 5.9 realm for sure.
Very nice route. The jugs for the start are huge, and it's a lot easier than it looks. Use a stout heel-hook to help get over it. And I didn't see any unnatural holds along the route, though I think that's been well-covered by now.
Loved this route!!! I took my first lead fall on this and broke my ankle...still finished the climb...it was great. After I get my cast off, this is the first one I am going to climb.