A solid slab that will be cooler than a majority of rocks in the canyon, due to its shaded north-facing location. Top access is via a trail shortly west of the rock. There are a number of enticing trad crack routes, many moderate and excellent for beginning trad leaders. Cob has a number of classic climbs on it, put up in the '50s and '60s.
L->R
East Face A. Scratch?, 12-, 1p, gear. B. Leave it of Lead It?, 12, 1p, gear. C. Racing The Sun?, 11 X, 1p, gear or TR. D. Devil's Dream?, 9, 1p, gear. E. Body Talk?, 9+, 1p, gear. F. Othello?, 10, 1p, gear.
About 6.6 miles up the canyon, on the south side of Boulder Canyon there's a pullout on the left side of the road beneath the rock. It's obvious. Crossing the river can be sketchy; we found it to be easiest via some rocks that are at the east edge of the pullout. Find the trail running to the right and up to the base of the rock.
2 pitches.P1. Start at base of North face between 2 huge boulders, go up crack and after 50 feet continue in crack system to the right....keep going until you reach a small pillar just over the right edge of a huge right facing corner...belay here.P2. Head up hand crack that curves right (tricky crux, flared jams) then heads straight up to summit. You can avoid this crux finish and from the belay go left up huge V-slot (5.0) to summit, but why?...[more]
I'm not going to comment on any one particular route. From this page, if anyone pulls the drop down for the routes, you will see all the stars listed. A GREAT crag, despite the close proximaty to the road and it being so crowded.
The traverse has been taken down, but with the drought this year it's not necessary. There are _many_ safe rock hopping ways to get to Cob Rock right now (September 2002)
Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why.
I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope traverse over the creek at Cob. He said the rope is attached to State property (the gaurd rail) which is against the law. I told him to wait a few days and put up a notice explaining the situation and not leave climbers stranded on the other side. He appeared to of waited because as of yesterday (8/13) the rope was still installed. In any case, he could come back and cut it and it is probably best to move the traverse back to the tree and off the gaurd rail.
The tyrolean for Cob and Sherwood Forrest are no longer needed. The creek can be safely crossed in calf deep water and it's almost possible to rock hop.
Was on the Northwest face yesterday, and it seems the big white spot in the picture where routes come together is where there is a massive 2-ton rock that is loose. I know this because I was about to set an anchor in and when I shook the TCU a little the whole damn thing moved. It's set in place well, but be aware! Cheers. brian w
I just crossed the creek on the fraying rope near Sherwood Forest and hiked down to Cob Rock. I was disturbed to find three new bolts on the face on the top pitch of Empor, near the 5.7 alternate finish. The 3rd bolt didn't have a hanger. Anyone know who put this up?
It seems rather contrived to me to put 3 bolts in at the top of a bunch of classic 5.7's and 5.8's. I happily climb the new bolted routes in the canyon, but I think it's out of place to be bolting a 20' piece of rock that you have to climb moderate routes with gear to approach. Perhaps my opinion is colored by my long time enjoyment of this, my favorite rock in the canyon.
Used the tyrolean today (5/3/07) and it works smashingly but just barely keeps you out of the water. Recommend dragging your packs across separately to keep them dry.
*EDIT: Tyrolean is fixed, nice 'n high above the creek. June 2007. Thanks to whomever did this.
Does anyone know what the bolted line just right of Hurley Direct is? The first bolt hanger is missing, then three more bolts to a sling anchor below a nice right leaning finger/hand crack.
Yahoo, Love Cob. All routes are quality!! One particular one,-I was wishing for more info of. Yesterday 6-22-07 w/ Pam Porskinak (sorry Philo I had to) I climbed up Hurley Direct (5.10- ?). Traversed into Empor (5.7ish-) and up the V-slot. From there, there are two bolts to a bolt stud. Face w/ small holds to a sloping dish (directly below the stud), I think this might be the crux (5.10+ or 5.11??). I might have made it harder, instead of using a stopper I had a maschine nut and "Lucky" bolt hanger, which I "placed" on the stud- gave it a traddier feel, clipped a draw and fell. LOL. Tim and Betheny whom I met, gave me enough motivation to do it on my second try, yet the hanger was in place at that point. I must try again, in the fashion of the first go. does any body know what it is? Culp climbed the face years ago w/o the bolts in place, but veered off to the right joining the 5.7 splitter-like crack of Empor. I think that's so cool man. That day I used the following gear for my attempt: #0.5 WC Friend (on Hurley Direct), two shoulder length slings w/ crabiners for the old pitons (on Empor), two quick draws for the bolts (on the "unknown" face), "lucky" bolthanger + the nut for it and two biners, sling and locker for tree belay, 1 pitch from ground to belay tree (60m). Super fun day.
A minor correction; many of the moderate classic lines were put up in the '50s (Empor and North Face Center) by the standard incredibles of that time! They had eyes for classic lines. Cob Rock is filled with them.
Cob Rock
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